Cartier has one of the richest and most influential histories in watchmaking — they practically defined what a luxury wristwatch should look like. Here’s a detailed overview:
Early Beginnings (Late 1800s–1900s)
- Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier in Paris, Cartier was first known for fine jewelry.
- By the late 1800s, Cartier began offering pocket watches to its elite clientele.
- In 1904, Louis Cartier created one of the first purpose-built men’s wristwatches — the Santos — for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted a watch he could use while flying.
- This was revolutionary at a time when men still mostly used pocket watches.
- The Santos is still one of Cartier’s most iconic watch models today.
Art Deco Era & Expansion (1910s–1930s)
- Cartier helped popularize the rectangular wristwatch case, moving away from the round pocket-watch style.
- 1917: Cartier introduced the Tank, inspired by the shape of WWI Renault tanks — it became an enduring symbol of elegance and minimalism.
- Cartier produced many now-classic designs during the 1920s and 1930s, such as:
- Tonneau (1906)
- Tortue (1912)
- Crash (1967, later became iconic for its surreal, melted look)
Mid-Century to Modern Era (1940s–1970s)
- Cartier cemented its reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings, King of Jewelers.”
- The brand became synonymous with luxury, worn by royalty and celebrities — Jackie Kennedy and Andy Warhol famously wore Cartier Tanks.
- During the Quartz Crisis, Cartier introduced the Must de Cartier line (1970s), which offered more accessible, quartz-powered Tanks to reach a wider audience.
Becoming a Watchmaking Powerhouse (1980s–Today)
- Cartier re-invested in mechanical watchmaking, launching high-end complications and acquiring its own manufacturing capabilities.
- Today, Cartier is considered part of haute horlogerie (high watchmaking).
- Modern highlights include:
- Cartier Fine Watchmaking Collection (tourbillons, minute repeaters, skeleton movements)
- Continuation of classics like Santos, Tank Louis Cartier, Ballon Bleu, Pasha, and Drive de Cartier
Cartier’s Legacy in Watchmaking
- Cartier is credited with popularizing the wristwatch for men and with making the wristwatch a fashion statement as much as a timekeeping tool.
- Its designs are timeless, instantly recognizable, and have influenced nearly every other luxury watchmaker.